Day 22 Burra to Waikerie

Overnight there were showers and it looked dodgy in the morning. However as we got under way it appeared that the showers were hanging around the hills and we seemed to get clear before suffering any showers. The terrain changed rapidly from lush rolling pasture to apparently unused land covered with saltbush. (Actually there were a few sheep around.) The characteristic of the day was strong winds that moderated a bit but stayed there all day. Fortunately they stayed behind us most of the time, but as the road wandered around sometimes it was dead across us (which is worse than no wind).

We hit the Murray river at Renmark for lunch on the banks of the river, then took the punt across the river before the final 38km to Waikerie. (The Riverland is not as flat as they'd have you believe!)

For myself I rode the whole distance today, so things continue to improve. I'm still way short of the condition I was in before the bug hit though. Even shorter day tomorrow, so I should manage that.

Day 21 Rest day at Burra

This day proceeds much as any other rest day. Laundry, rest, coffee, look around town.

Burra seems to have gone in the direction of places like Mittagong in NSW - accessible from Adelaide and developed craft shops, antique shops and so on. So its quite interesting to wander around.

Burra's origins are mining and there are Cornish and Welsh remnants in town. One of thye striking things is that there are a number of rows of miner's residences (see picture). It appears that these have been turned into motel units for visitors. The buildings are stone and many are in excellent condition. I picture of the Visitor Centre building is attached.

Being Sunday, and given that we were staying in the Burra Uniting Church hall, we went to their 11am service. A great deal more songs than I am accustomed to, but an enjoyable service in a lovely old church. The service was run by the minister's wife. Thge minister took Roger and Edna with him to a far flung church where the three of them doubled the congregation.

A highlight of the visit was that the local church not only provided us wit6h dinner on Saturday evening, but also provided a lavish lunch on Sunday. (Then we had to front up to the Burra pub for dinner!)

Day 20 Port Pirie to Burra

We're beginning to have more and more wonderful riding days. Today started out clear and cool, a few scattered cumulus clouds developed but later in the day those cleared to a cloudless day. Wind conditions were light, but what there was was behind us.

The route today took us out of the industrial/mining areas and through the tail end foothills of the Flinders Ranges through Crystal Brook, Gulnare and on to Burra. This countryside is rolling countryside with field upon field of wheat and canola. Most of the canola is now in flower and the sights were spectacular.

Today also got us away from the flat countryside we've followed for weeks, so today we had a few hills. Not so much a shock to the system as a pleasant change for most people. Plenty more hills along the way between here and Sydney.

As for myself, I could not believe the difference between yesterday and today. My previous day's ride had been between Norseman and Balladonia - 192k and not at all difficult. Yesterday I could only manage 10k and was absolutely had it. Made me realise what had hit me. However today I got on the bike and rode 60k to Gulnare and got off there not because I was had it, but because I felt it expedient not to push things too much. With tomorrow's rest day I should be right to go on Monday!

Today I got awarded the "Maillot Blanc" a jersey instituted a couple of day's ago to the rider who sticks most assiduously to the left and thus rides most safely. So my day to wear the white jersey will be Monday.

Day 19 Port Augusta to Port Pirie

This was meant to be an easy day. Less than 100k and flat. Ask most of the riders and they'll say it was not an easy day. There are a couple of reasons. For one thing a cross wind blew with a slight head component - not a gale, but enough. And the road conditions made riding difficult. There was a lot of traffic and most of the time we needed to ride to the left of the white line marking the edge of the road. You had to be careful of the white line as it was an audible line all the way, and they are no joke on a bike. There were cateye reflectors to the left of the line that you had to keep dodging. (Hit one of those too fast and you get a snake-eye puncture.) Then there was plenty of gravel on the side of the road that needed to be avoided. Some largish rocks amongst it. So it was a matter of continuous concentration, no chance to look at the scenery (gulf on the right, Flinders Ranges on the left).

The weather looked after us. As we approached Port Pirie we could see a shower cut across Port Pirie but it passed by in front of us and left us alone.

As for me it was kind of a big day. Got on the bike for the first time since Balladonia after morning tea for a short while. Only a very short time - a measly 10.5k -but I still have absolutely no energy and it was a start. A little each day and we'll eventually get back there.

Day 18 Kimba to Port Augusta

What a difference a day makes! After howling adverse winds yesterday, today we woke to clear skies, crisp temperatures and no wind. Set off under those same conditions. After an hour or so some scattered cloud began to appear and it stayed that way all day - lovely fine day. But more significantly a breeze sprung up behind us and the riders had a great run through to Port Augusta. In fact 21 minutes longer for 152km today than we took yesterday for 107km!

It was interesting to watch the countryside change along the route. We started out riding through beautiful green wheat fields, but as the day progressed that disappeared and gave way to lightly wooded country. Still further on the trees became sparser and more stunted so that we were looking at scrub. Then more and more saltbush appeared until it dominated the scene and trees were few and far between. By then we were into iron ore country. (One view of Iron Knob mine is sttached.)

Because this is the first "big smoke" since we left Perth, many people have been off attending to various needs including parts and fixes at a local bike shop. Roger, Edna, Eric and I did a bit of that and visited a coffee shop this afternoon.

As for me, getting on the bike again is getting closer. Depending on the weather and how I feel I might get on the bike for a short stint between "Gazzer breaks" - named after "Weak Bladder Gazzer". I'll play it by ear.

Speaking of Gazzer breaks, one of the riders said the other day that it takes some of the shine off the achievement if he has to admit that he did the ride with two grandmothers and Weak Bladder Gazzer. (Mind you I think poor old Gary is the scapegoat. There are others keen on the break...)

Day 17 Wudinna to Kimba

This day was supposed to be relatively easy - just 101km. And while the rain kept away apart from one brief shower, the wind did not!

We heard the wind come up during the night and I think most people lay in their sleeping bags wondering which way it was blowing. It was blowing the wrong way. Not full in the face, but an ugly wind from roughly a front quarter. Almost made me glad I was still not on the bike today (I reckon that's a few days away yet). My guess is that it was a 45kph wind. It was not a fast day.

Today we were joined part way along by Alex and Margaret Hood who will be with us as rider and roadie for the rest of the trip.

Kimba asserts that it is half way across Australia. Don't know what their measure is, but it doesn't match our distances. Also I'm not sure what the connection with the Galah is.

Lurgi and smashed dreams

I know there are many people looking at this site, but I originally intended this as a personal site and so this post is a purely personal reflection.

On day 7 we set out from Norseman to Balladonia on the first of three long days, and the first of what I describe as the Nullarbor leg. The ride was an excellent one. There were a few showers, but the dominating factor was a good tail wind. The ride, though 192km, was not hard.

In the evening when walking the 200m or so from the dining room to the cabin I broke out in completely uncontrollable shivers. A pretty unpleasant night was spent and in the morning I dressed in riding gear to defer a decision until after breakfast. In the end I decided that I was in not state to ride, so loaded the bike on the trailer and climbed in the support car with Eric. There I dozed, sweated and vegetated. Essentially the condition got worse over the next few days and I've ended up with a full blown respitory virus infection. Turns out to be the worst such lurgi that I can remember having.

On Day 9 (Caiguna to Madura Pass) Eric and I cleared out from the team at morning tea time to make a 300km journey to Eucla to visit a Silver chain nursing service clinic there, and back 200km to Madura Pass. The nurse's prognosis after doing the usual checks was "probably swine flu" Great! Her concern was getting the temperature down and keeping it thus. No evidence of a need for antibiotics. Plough on for another couple days and we decided it was time for a visit to a doctor at Ceduna Hospital. He didn't mention swine flu. He still reckoned no secondary infection evidence and thus nothing more than symptomatic stuff from the chemist. A question of hang in there..

Today was the ride from Streaky Bay to Wudinna and for the first time there's some evidence of improvement. I feel human for a lot of the time today. A long way to go, and I heed the warnings of both medicos at the risk of heart damage if I try too much too soon .

So what does this mean? I've been off the bike for over a week. After spending months getting physically and mentally prepared for this big adventure, being off the bike this long brings the dream down in tatters. To be off the bike over the iconic Nullabor section is utterly devastating. It will take me some time to come to grips with it and I have to remember that the personal challenges are not all we're here for.

It seems even worse when I know that my legs, knees, etc were all going really well. In the end it was something that Icannot control that undid me.

Now that is out of the way, more cheerful stuff from now on. (I promise)